The journey to Kununurra was a short one in many ways. At the WA border, we not only passed through Checkpoint Charlie, (border quarantine. No fresh fruit or vegetables or honey into WA) but we passed back in time. We gained 1 ½ hours. So, as we sat at the border eating the last of our fresh produce at 12.00, 100 metres away, it was only 10.30am! That gave us plenty of time to get organised when we got to Kununurra.
We hadn’t booked for this night as we weren’t sure about the timing of things. We were always leaving our van in storage at the park we are going back to after 2 nights camping at El Questro. It was good luck that we snagged a powered spot in this same park for Monday night. Only required a 100m drive to the storage area.
Off we headed to El Questro. It’s bitumen to the turn off into the station, so only about 15km of dirt to contend with. The drive to this point had been very pretty, with lots of interesting rock formations. Once we hit dirt, it became less impressive. Dust covered everything. It was a bit corrugated in places but not too bad. Enough though, for us to say that we were glad we didn’t bring the van in. We had 3 water crossings, the first 2 weren’t much. The third was just outside the Station, the Pentacost River. It was about 20 metres in length perhaps 30 - 40cm in depth. Got through no problems. Pretty exciting though!
We set up camp, had a wander around. It is an interesting place. Set up purely for tourism after numerous pastoral attempts. The pastoral lease was 1 million acres, but now only 750,000 acres. Only run about 1000 cattle, which is a requirement of the lease. The whole area cannot sustain more than 3000 head.
They were very efficient at check in. Lots of people about, but we just accept that as normal. We have booked a cruise through the Chamberlain Gorge tomorrow so we had a drive out to the jetty today (about 20-25mins drive). Pretty corrugated but not too bad. Then turned off to look at Branko Crossing, which used to be the only crossing to Wyndham. A fine specimen of a Boab tree (named the Durack Tree after a prominent family).
We had thought about crossing it, but once we looked at it, a definite no, one has to know their limitations. It takes about 8 to 10 mins to cross it. It was rocky, and the track seemed to disappear very quickly. Not for novices, or at least, not those travelling alone. Also, if you stop during the crossing, you don’t get out of the car. (Crocs).
A swim beckoned on our return. There are safe swimming areas at the Station in the Pentacost River. Not deep, but very pleasant. We finished the day off with happy hour and some entertainment by “The Nomadics”. A young couple who have been travelling for 10 years doing gigs up the WA Coast, now with 3 kids in tow. Their truck/van has travelled 160,000km on used vegetable oil. Much cheaper than diesel I suppose.
Wednesday tomorrow, an early visit to Zeebede Springs ( the sun will rise early). It is only open to the public from 7 am to 12 pm. The afternoon is exclusive for tours and private guests. There is the flash accommodation that cost about $1400 a night. We plebs are paying $20 per person a night.
The afternoon will be our river cruise. Tomorrow night, dinner at the bar. Pizza/Burger night.
Heading out this morning, we were greeted by one of the resident donkeys. If you stop, it will come over for a pat, otherwise, it stays put and you get a flick of the tail!
Zeebede Springs was just amazing. A couple of river crossings to contend with, but we are becoming good at them. We have been sharing the driving all the way, and the off road stuff is no different. In fact, I have been doing more off road stuff than Russell. Still a long way to go with our off road stuff, but we are getting better at it.
The rocks around Zeebede Springs are dated to have formed about 1800 million years ago! We aren’t expecting to see much change if we ever get back here again. These thermal springs were about 27o to 32o. It was just a matter of clamber from 1 rock pool to another. Sensational. A great way to spend the morning. (The odd leech!)
Water shoes, along with our boots, have become standard footwear. Throw in the thongs, and that is about all that is required!
On our way back, we took a couple of detours to check out Jackeroo billabong. Another suitable swimming hole, but we were already like dried prunes after soaking all morning. Nice spot to contemplate. Next, a drive to check out the deep water crossing (not for us, snorkel required and experience!). It was our luck as someone was else coming through, so we got to see how deep it was. (about 700mm). This vehicle did have a snorkel, but it was also a hire vehicle, so no care factor!
Another swim after lunch, then off to our Chamberlain river cruise. A 20 min bumpy drive, (and no, we are not doing the Gibb River Road. Had enough of corrugated road and dust). It was another spectacular gorge, bubbles and nibbles at the end of the Gorge as well as fish feeding. The Archer fish are amazing. Hold your arm out with some fish food, and they squirt water at the target. That makes you drop it. After a while, we would just hold out the hand and they would just squirt at that. Amazing. Catfish, Sooty munters and a couple of big barramundi. Entertaining.
Tonight, new entertainment at the bar. Jeremiah played blues type music. Quite good. Great large pizza and a bottle of wine $52. All done and dusted by 7 pm.
This Kimberley time is hard to get used to. Will be awake by 5.30am.
It is interesting chatting to people about their journeys, and what people do. We left our camp site at almost dark to go to dinner. When we got back, there was a tent/family set up next to us. All in the dark! Many have brought bigger vans than ours in here, not all off roaders. They are crazier or braver than us. No way would we have brought our van in here. Not only would it have rattled to bits, but might have been a bit wet. It’s horses for courses. If you want to do the off road stuff, well you need to have the right set up. Or accept the consequences. Many have said that bits have rattled off; reflectors, mirrors, etc, not to mention the dust.
Tomorrow, we stop at Emma Gorge, a short drive to Wyndham, then back to Kununurra for a few days.
It now Thursday evening and we are a bit worn out. With the amazing noise of birds before sunrise, we were well and truly awake at 5.30am. Heaps of people up and packing. We had a leisurely morning but were all packed up and gone before 8 am.
Back through the water, and off to Emma Gorge. It is a 1.6km walk in but is a bit more strenuous than it sounds. It was a pretty rough walk, climbing over rocks/boulders. We had our trusty boots on for this task. Amazingly though, many people were wearing thongs or light slip on shoes! A recipe for disaster! It was also a good idea to do it early as it got hot. About 34o by 11am. The walk was worth the effort. Amazing, not to mention a refreshing dip after the walk. There was a thermal outlet which warmed a small part of the pool. Reportedly, a freshwater croc in there too. Swimmers were asked not to aggravate it! We didn’t see it. This gorge was another beautiful natural environment!
It was now onto bitumen. What a delight! Since we were so close, we took a left at the highway and headed to Wyndham. It is where 5 major rivers meet, heading out to sea. A great view from the lookout. It is also the hottest place in Australia. It averages 36oC 365 days of the year! Today was no different. The port area looks so small from above, but is huge. Still life export of cattle from here. Also, iron ore.
We had a late lunch at the recently opened bakery. (Not too much else in Wyndham,). A locally, wild caught, barramundi pie. Sensational. Made the drive through 28km of roadworks worth it (almost).
By the time we got back to Kununurra, we were worn out. Collect the van from storage, set up, unpack from 2 days away, do some washing, sit back and enjoy the lakeside view. The neighbours spotted the “Bendigo Mitsubishi” sticker on the car. They are from Strathdale! They are the first Bendigo people we have met so far.
The lake does have some freshies. Shine the torch into the shallows, and you can spot their eyes! Not huge ones, but, would give a nasty nip. We will steer clear of them.
We continue to be impressed by the beauty of this vast country. Just a long way to get here. About 7,300 kms so far!
The internet is a little sluggish tonight, so I will try adding photos tomorrow.
