An interesting day in transit to Lake Como

It was a day of stations, waiting, timetables, crowds and rip offs to get to Lake Como (Cadenabbia).

Our first journey was the local train from Rio Maggorie to Monterosso.  Wait there about 50 mins to get the regional train to Milan.  This one was reserved seating, although we didn't know that when we got on, so had to move from our first seats to our proper seats.  Not a problem, although getting the large cases up onto the above racks, a two person job.  

This train was a little slow and stopped at quite a few stations.  It ended up being 20 mins late, which meant we missed the regional train to Como.  Not a big problem as there was an intercity train to Lucern which stopped at Como about 30 mins later.  

Only trouble (which we found out later) was our ticket was only for a regional train.  We didn't have an allocated seat.  There was plenty of room so we just waited until the train took off before we sat in empty seats.  Conductor comes along and slugs us another €15 each because it was an intercity train!  Wasn't our fault the other train was late. She said that if we had gone to the information desk (which I recall had a queue out the door), they would have sorted it out.  In other words, we would have just paid there. Over it now though.  

But I am not over having to pay €1 at the station to go to the toilet!  That was a rip off, and I still had to queue.  Everywhere else in Europe, if you had to pay, it was 50c. Once we got to Italy, it has gone up to 70c or even 80c.  But €1!

An unfortunate incident did happen on the intercity train just minutes before it left the station  Whilst we were standing waiting for a seat with our luggage, we were chatting to 4 people who were sitting opposite each in a five seat area.  3 young women came up to them and said that they were sitting in their seats.  There was some discussion and showing of tickets and pointing to seat numbers.  They women decided they were on the wrong carriage and left.  On returning her tickets to her handbag, she realised that her wallet was missing.  They raced off the train to the police who were just outside on the platform.  The wallet was found a short distance away with the cash missing!  Credit cards were all intact.  The police said there was nothing they could do.  The couple got back on and off went the train.  The 6 of us were stunned at how easily it was done.  The power of distraction.  The confusion of tickets got the lady to open her bag, then the ensuing conversation allowed one of the others to help herself.  Very unsettling.  We have been very cautious the whole trip, our wallets on pacsafe safety chains, and mine in my handbag with its pacsafe lock. 

Eventually we got to Como, lugged cases up MORE steps, and waited another 40 mins for the bus to Cadenabbia.  It was a pleasant time as we chatted to 3 young adults from Melbourne who were going on the same bus.

The bus ride was a little hairy at times, very narrow roads, heaps of Sunday afternoon traffic and heaps of motorcyclists with a death wish!  It was a very welcome end to our journey, although we got off 1 stop too early.  Very poor signage at the bus stops.

Our Hotel is very nice, with a lovely view of the Lake.  I think it is our biggest room yet.  They just keep getting better.

Dinner was in the Hotel Pizzeria last night (although we both went for a meat dish last night.  We have had very little red meat whilst away.  Lots of fish and seafood, which must be good for us).

A day on the Lake today as we catch the Ferry and town hop around the middle lake.

Bye for now.

Our last day on the Cinque Terre

A very peaceful night last night, no storms, no wind, even the crowds in the street were quieter.  Perhaps we were just exhausted and slept well.

Back on the train this morning to visit the two towns we had visited yet.

The first one was Corniglia (the middle town).  It isn't accessible by boat, as it is perched up on top of a ridge. 

 

A walk along side the railway line.

Then up 365 steps to reach the town. (That's what the sign said.  I didn't count them).

Once again, great views, beautiful weather helps.  May not be so great when raining or cloudy.

The view are much the same. Pretty.

Can you spot the worker?  Tough walk to get there.

Narrow streets.  This town is a little quieter than the others, perhaps because of the steps, although you could pay €2 to catch the bus up.

The next stop was Vernazza.  This was much busier.  It is more like Monterosso, less steep, more accessible by car and more water access.  All 5 towns would be nothing if it wasn't for the tourists.  They make small amounts of wine, but there is nothing else to keep them going.  Just well there are thousands and thousands of tourists everyday.

Very pretty spot.  

Plenty of small water craft in this harbour.  Plenty of people were using the water taxi service to get to Monterosso.  The trains are good, but very crowded and perhaps not as regular as we had expected.

There are regional trains as well as goods, and fast trains using the line.  The timetable can be a little confusing (and not well signed) and there are always people wandering on the platform trying to work out timetables etc.

The railway line through the mountain with people swimming below.

Grapes are loaded onto this small tray three wheeled vehicle ready for the journey down the hill.

Heading up for a better view.  More steps! 

The view was worth it.  Russell's quote for the day.  "A view worth dying for". We were standing in the cemetery!  I hope they use one of those little trucks to cart up the casket.  Hard work otherwise for the pall bearers.

There is no alternative for the washing.  Hang it out your window, no matter how many people are walking by.  The lines are a pulley system.  Peg it on and pull it along.

The view from the railway station.

On to Monterosso where we spent the afternoon swimming again.  Weather has been great here.

On arrival back to Rio Maggorie, we passed the Church.  A wedding was in progress.  A little while later the Church bells started ringing.  The bell gongs every half hour, all day and night. Just once on the half hour, but hourly, it gongs for each hour.  That's right, at midnight it gongs 12 times.  At 3am it is 3 times etc, but for some reason, at 7 am it gongs 14 times!  After a while, you don't even notice it.

When the wedding was leaving the Church it was really ringing.  I was on the balcony and could see the bells.  They were really swinging.  It went on for ages.

Tomorrow is another day of travel as we reach our last location on Lake Como.  

Cinque Terre by land

Last night we had another thunderstorm.  This time, it was the wind that woke us up.  The apartment has shutters.  Everybody has shutters and they are all dark green.  (Think it may be a requirement by law.  This area is protected by UNESCO under World Heritage of Humanity.) Our landlord said that shutters need to be shut when you are away and at night.  It is okay to leave the windows/doors open for ventilation, so we have been doing that.  When the wind whipped up last night it roared through the shutters as it went up the valley.  It was like the train going through.  It roared for ages.  We closed the door by this stage, which blocked out most of the noise, but not all.  A small amount of thunder made it a loud night.  By the time we got up, it had all passed and the day looked good.

We trained it to Manarola first up.  This is Rio Maggorie station.

Lyn C, I think this is the jigsaw puzzle that you had.  The angle of the sun gives it a different colour.

Or it might be this one.

Either one, it looks spectacular.

We were able to walk around the corner for some more views of the coastline, but this is another path that is closed due to land slips.

The Manarola cemetery high up  on the hill.  There had been a couple of burials this year.

The caskets go in to concrete slots and then sealed.  5 high.

  Space is a premium here.

Below is taken from adjacent to the cemetery.

The view from the station below.

It was on to Monterosso where we paid the €15 to spend the afternoon lazing on the beach.  

Russell had just got the good news that North had won.

The water temperature was a little bracing (no different to Victorian beaches) but once in, it was very comfortable (except for the stones).  

There is no sand, just a section of fine stones, then bigger stones!

Very hard on the feet, but a pleasant way to spend the arvo.  The water was quite salty and very buoyant.

Back to catch another train home.

Having a quiet night in with some takeaway, yes pizza and some local red wine.  Most of the hills around here still grow grapes and considerable quantities of red and white are produced. 

Hard labour required to produce the wine though.  Tending to the vines and carting grapes still has to be done manually.  We did see in Manarola a motorised wheelbarrow with 4 wheels that was able to cart 4 crates of grapes.  Almost feel guilty buying a bottle of the red for €4.50. It is very nice too.

To end the day, we watched the sun set over the Mediterranean Sea.  Looked pretty.

Tomorrow, we will visit to two towns we haven't visited yet and follow that up with another relaxing arvo on the beach.  Weather mid to high 20s which is pleasant for the beach.

By for now.

Cinque Terre from the sea.

Today we caught the ferry for a view from the sea.  During the night we werent so sure that was going to happen as there was another thunderstorm and rain.  However, by morning it was all gone and the day was fine.  This is our only accommodation that does not supply breakfast so it is off down the hill for breakfast.  Then back up the hill to get ready for our day.  It was a little cool as the sun has to come up over the high peaks at the back of the village.  This stretch of coastline is on the Eastern part of the Italian riviera. Off back down the hill to catch the 9.20 am ferry.

The ferry stopped at Manarola, 

Vernazza 

and Monterosso, which is where we got off.  The other town, Corniglia, doesn't have a suitable harbour for the ferry.

Monterosso is the largest of the towns, divided by a ridge to the beach so there are two parts to the town.  It is also less steep which makes it more attractive to lesser abled or children etc.  It is also accessible by vehicle all the way down to beach level.  

Our town's main street is accessible to vehicle, but it really is only for commercial purposes or emergency services.  There are many high parts which are only for walkers and mountain goats!

Monterosso is very popular because it has the beaches as well.  

Not quite Australian sandy beaches, but this is the Meditteranean!  The water colour is spectacular. 

There are parts of the beaches you can pay for where you get security, an umbrella and a deck chair or lounge.

We did a walk up a mountain goat track.  It got the heart rate up that is for sure.  We didn't go too far

as you have to be so busy watching your footings that you don't take in the surroundings.

The selfies aren't getting much better.

As usual, we managed to find some delights for morning tea (almost lunch time really and we had burned off some energy with the climb).

But it was really all about the view from this spot.

Maddie, this shot is for you. The entire Monterosso Police vehicle fleet.  The bike too.

We caught the 12 o'clock ferry which was stopping all ports, but we continued onto Portovenre which is about 1/2 hour ferry from Rio Maggiore.  Some photos from the ferry show some rugged terrain and remote houses.

The tunnels for the train go right through the mountains, almost at sea level.

This one is truly remote.  A steep walking track only.

Below shows one of the paths.  Rio Maggorie to Manarola.  Unfortunately there have land slips and this path is closed for repairs.  The other from Manarola to Corniglia is also closed for the same reason.  The mountain goat routes are open, but they take some effort and time.

Portovenre has a spectacular harbour with a temple on the promontory.  It makes a grand entrance to the harbour.  Apparently Lord Byron used this place as a stimulus for his poetry writing.

Behind the row of houses, below, a narrow stree of shops, cafés and doors which lead the front of the houses.

A slightly more wealthy town than those making up the Cinque Terre.  It is leads around to La Spezia which is a more "normal" town than here.

Ferry ride back to Rio Maggorie for a dinner by the water in the town's best waterfront view.  Didn't have the camera though!  It was a reservation required place , prices reasonable, food good but service a bit ordinary (Russell had finished his starter before I got mine.)

Hope you enjoyed the photos.  More tomorrow.

PS.  Shame about Geelong but good on North.  Michael kept us updated with  quarter by quarter scores.  He said it was a good game, close enough to make it exciting and nerve racking for North supporters.  We will be home to see North next week.  (Hopefully win!)